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28 September 2008

September in Review: More Pictures

By clicking on the respective album picture below, you should be taken to a small selection of exclusive pictures which I have taken during the month of September while heading through Laos.

Laos

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24 September 2008

Home Alone in Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang is "tonic for your soul" (source: the Lonely Planet guidebook). Luang Prabang is the jewel of Indochina. And Luang Prabang is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

What a great finale for the trip through Laos!

This is definitely my preferred town in Southeast Asia. I simply love this city and wish that I had more time to stay. But my airline ticket to Australia now puts serious date constraints in my travel plans.

There are a lot of tourist attractions in Luang Prabang. Most of them did not appeal to Rene and me since we already had seen dozens of scenic waterfalls, Buddha caves and tribal villages during our three week trip through Laos. Moreover, the morning rainfalls did put an end to our intention to explore the city surroundings ourselves by bike.

Consequently, we did spend one day visiting the various sights downtown. This actually filled easily a full day for us: Vat Xieng Thong is the city's oldest and probably most magnificent temple. Then, there is Wat Wisunalat, built entirely of wood and featuring a stupa in a watermelon shape. Last, but not least, we went up the hill (Mount Phousi) in the city center for a beautiful 360 degree sunset view over Luang Prabang.

We also voluntarily missed the morning alms ceremony of the monks, where they walk in hundreds through the city center. There are actually flyers in places all over town which ask tourists not to take pictures of the monks during this ceremony. The upsetting illustrations on these papers show hordes of paparazzi-behaving tourists who almost push the monks away - just to get the optimal snapshot. The caption reads "Please don't behave like these tourists and respect the tradition". Well - in a certain sense - we respected it, because we were too lazy to get out of bed that early in the morning.

Unfortunately, Luang Prabang is also the place, where Rene and I have to separate after exactly three weeks of exploring Laos. Eventually, we will meet again in South America - but for the moment, our travel routes diverge: Rene left on the second morning of our stay to take the bus to Nong Khiaw (Northern Laos) and to explore the National Parks there. Later that same day, I went on by overnight bus to Huay Xai, which is the Lao border city from where I would enter Thailand.

This was my first trip on a night bus and I did sleep actually pretty good - despite the fact that the seats did not incline and that the bus was full. However, I only got a glimpse of the scenic landscape during sunset and sunrise.

Although the road generally was in a good condition, the bus had to slow down because small patches of the track had been swept away due to mudslides. To circumnavigate these zones, the bus would take a makeshift mud trail, which looked a bit hazardous at times. This makes me wonder who on Earth would build a road without the necessary fortifications to prevent such kinds of damage. Since most roads in Laos are financed by foreign corporations (obviously in exchange for trade facilities), I wish they would put up the company names next to such cheapish work. Makes me wonder how this recently built road will look in some years - after a couple of wet seasons.

The border crossing in Huay Xai was smooth. In fact, this is by far the most improvised border I have seen until now: Before taking a canoe-style boat to cross the river and go into Thailand, I had to get - obviously - the Laos exit stamp for my passport. However, the 50m long footpath down to the river, located between two guest houses, looks like an ants nest. It contains sheds for customs offices, immigration offices, money changer, souvenir stalls and ticket booth for the boat. Inbound and outbound locals and tourists mingle on this small trail and basically render any sort of border control useless. I am very sure that there are tourists who simply forget to have their passports stamped, since it would be very easy to unboard the boat and head straight up to the main street, hailing a tuk-tuk for the onward journey. Eventually, I got the needed stamp and boarded the boat after sharing some cookies with him.

The same chaos was found for the "border control" on the Thailand side (although their footpath is about 100m long). I actually had to ask three times various uniformed officials which of the sheds would serve for the immigration. However, everyone was friendly and relaxed (actually, on both sides of the border).

Obviously, I do like these kinds of borders, since I know the customs procedures (like most other tourists do as well). I am able to independently choose what to do next. Actually, I went back on the Laos side after having my passport "Exit-Stamped" to change my money, because by that time the queue at the shed exchanging money was shorter. This kind of optimizing did the trick: Departing Laos and entering Thailand took about 20 minutes, including the boat ride and filling out the landing card on the Thailand side.

Epilogue:
Laos was from the first to the last minute one great experience for me: From playing "Petanque" with the immigration officers at the Voen Kham border, driving motobikes through Southern Laos, shooting an indie-movie in Vientiane and to eating breakfast with officials at the border control in Huay Xai - I had tons of fun with many friendly locals in a most relaxing environment. This will be a tough one to match for any of the upcoming countries along my trip.

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21 September 2008

Vang Vieng with a Vengeance

Vang Vieng, situated halfway between the cities of Vientiane and Luang Prabang is called by one web site as being a 'a backpackers' secret'. Oh well, 90% of the tourists visiting Northern Laos end up in Vang Vieng for a day or two. Ooops, there goes the secret...

Therefore, Vang Vieng is in fact a streamlined tourist factory, where the prices are fixed by various cartels: Fried rice comes at 20'000 Kip (U$ 2.50), Internet does cost 300 Kip/minute (18'000 Kip/hour - U$ 2.25) and even prices for T-Shirts are fixed and thus non-negotiable. In fact, businesses in Vang Vieng don't have room to bargain. They do prefer to loose a sale instead. On the other hand, slight overcharging is common: This was the only city where we had to constantly check the bills and the change obtained. Several times, the salesmen and barkeepers apologized. This is very uncommon for the rest of Laos that we had visited prior to Vang Vieng.

Consequently, the main attraction in Vang Vieng are tourists - not local tribes. We found dozens of tourist restaurants having several strategically placed television sets hanging from ceilings. This makes sure, that the clients won't miss a bit of the action on the screen, wherever they sit. It is actually hard to find a place, where you can drink or eat without such an entertainment backdrop. Usually, I don't really mind drinking a beer watching with one eye a football game on the big screen. But Vang Vieng is different: The majority of the television sets show re-runs of 'Friends' exclusively (try searching Google for "Watching Friends in Vang Vieng" and you'll get the picture by reading through other travellers' blogs).

Although I used to be a fan of this television series - watching the crowds fixated to the telly screens is both absurd and scaring. I came to the conclusion that the "Friends" series is bad for kids, since it obviously pushes subliminal images in some people's brains, such as "Watch Friends", "Eat Pringles", "Obey the system" or "Travel to Vang Vieng".

To be honest and fair, Vang Vieng has definitely more attractions than simply seeing how mindless hedonists are staring 45 minutes in one direction. Many people come for kayaking, cycling, trekking, rock climbing or massage by the blind (they probably watched too much 'Friends'). But most notably, people stop here for tubing down the Nam Song river. This is the very reason I came here. Moreover, the place is absolutely scenic, with limestone rocks alongside the Western edge of the town.

There is also a cartel selling the tube ride down the river at a fixed cost (including life-jacket and the tuk-tuk ride to the starting point). Alongside the river, there are about a dozen bars catering exclusively for the "tuber". They will throw you a rope or swim to your tube to grab you ashore, whenever you give them a sign that you want to stay at their place. Some of these bars also feature basic entertainment, such as swings from where Rene jumped several times into the water. At another bar, we spotted the ubiquitous "Petanque" field where I did beat Rene with a score of 13:11. The tube ride itself was absolutely relaxing and fun, although the usual suspects who get drunk beyond their limit were at times loud and annoying. Especially the blonde girl who threw up badly into the river did make us rethink whether we'd have dinner or a shower after the tubing.

We stayed two nights in Vang Vieng and spent both evenings essentially in Internet Cafes where we would cut our movie we'd filmed back in Vientiane. We managed to find one place, that would give us a cheaper price per hour, since we were looking for a computer - not wanting Internet connectivity at all. The owner of the place did let us use his most powerful workstation, coming with a DVD writer and some useful video codecs (needed for various video formats) preinstalled. Unfortunately, there was no video editing software installed and I had to do the cutting job using "Windows Movie Maker" (comes with "Windows XP" installed). But then again, our film was shot in a very improvised, amateurish way. Why should the final cut be any different? Needless to say that during our work, we entertained the whole Internet-Cafe.

Getting away from Vang Vieng is one of the other nuisances - thanks to the bus and travel agencies' cartel. Although there are several local (non-tourist) buses, no one in town seems to know at what time they leave or how much they would cost. Even the bus station two kilometers out of town lists only tourist buses. The local buses are written in Lao script only. Tourists are being told to take "VIP" busses or Mini vans, because the road is bad and dangerous and that local buses are not good. So far, this years' only bus incident on this route involved a "VIP" bus who drove into a roadside pit (source). Ooops, there goes to so-called safety argument.

As for the road between Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang, we were pleasantly surprised (having expected a really really bad road): This feels exactly the same as the "4-Pass Tour" offered by the Swiss Postbus. The road is winding through a scenic mountain area and although tired, I didn't sleep on this fantastic road trip.

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18 September 2008

It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad World in Vientiane

Before arriving at capital city of Laos, Vientiane - Rene and I decided to make this our "comfort" layover. Take it easy for a day or two and stretch our legs from the busy trip through the South of Laos. We figured that the capital city would have a lot of Cafes and Bakery shops. We were even fantasizing about indulging some Pizza. After having eaten noodle soup from street side stalls for the past two weeks, we were both craving for Western food. Yes, we managed to eat European food (I actually went for a very tasty 'Cordon Bleu' with 'Freedom Fries' instead of Pizza) - but as for the rest, we managed to keep ourselves so busy that we did leave the place two days later completely tired.

But first things first: Since Rene is a stand-up-comedian-one-man-show-artist, he decided to make a small movie. It should be featuring for the main part the juggling of live fish. This might not be a politically correct performance, but it sounded enough funny to me to be curious how to achieve such a weird film. Consequently, I was named as cameraman responsible of filming an improvised street show featuring monks with toilet plows, hi-jacking tuk-tuks, liberating chicken from their cages and - juggling live fish at the Morning Market (Talat Sao) in Vientiane.

To achieve this, we sketched out a route which would permit us to visit both the temples and potential shooting locations at markets. Since the Lao capital is very small and a laid back city, we were able to do everything by foot. Actually, there is not much which sets Vientiane apart from other big cities in Laos. Nevertheless, an omnipresent police force and one stretch of a 800m long straight four-lane road give a hint that this is actually the main city of the country. At one end of this toy-sized 'Champs-Elysee'-boulevard, there is a structure that resembles the Parisian 'Arc de Triomphe', while the other end is taken up by the Presidential Palace.

Although the sightseeing route seemed to be short, I did get my very first blisters on this trip. They were situated between the toes, born through a 10km city walk in flip-flops. Now, I do know how Ania must have felt back in Beijing.

In that evening, we prepared ourselves for the shooting next day: Rene packed his items for the act and I got familiar with his movie camera. Next morning, we set off to the various locations we researched the previous day. After a few scenes, I started to figure out that the focus shouldn't be kept on Rene (who was more sort of an Extra during his performance), but on the locals who were the main stars. On-the-go, I learned other tricks - remembering vaguely some basics from the days I did film in Super-8.

Nevertheless, I missed some scenes badly. That was a bit of a put-off for me, because we did not really have a chance to do another take since the acting was improvised. Some of the best shots were the ones where Rene gave me very little instructions about what would happen during his act, because I was more intuitive and improvising as well. By the end of the day, this system worked best for both of us. Kudos to the film crews of the various shows at MTV - or the Borat movie, because shooting improvised street acts is definitely tougher than I ever imagined.

As part of our shooting, we were taking a slow and packed local bus to the outskirts of Vientiane. There lies a Buddha Park alongside the Mekong river as scenic attraction for tourists. Imagine Jean Tinguely or Nikki de St. Phalle born in Laos. Then you know what the Buddha Park (also known as Xien Khuan) is about: A garden full of weird, but beautiful statues, created by a local artist and his team in the late 1950's. After finalizing our last scenes, we decided to drive back by local bus (U$ 0.40) instead of the faster tuk-tuk (U$ 10). Hey, our movie budget was definitely limited.

Consequently, we were both arriving very tired at the guesthouse in the evening. This was also due to the fact that we decided on the bus ride back to shoot an epilogue with grilled fish - which we couldn't find in size and shape that was suitable for the film. Therefore, we gave up that idea and went instead with a replacement scene featuring frozen fish in a Vientiane supermarket.

There goes the "comfort" layover. Actually, Vientiane was so far our most stressful and action-packed location. As we found - during the shooting of the movie - a cheap bus for Vang-Vieng (a very touristy place) near the downtown Morning Market, we will try our best to relax there. Insha'Allah.

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17 September 2008

Tha Khaek and Ban Khoun Kham in a nutshell

Exchanging tales of the trade means for backpackers to share secret hints and tips for good and cheap accommodation, great local food - or some fantastic sight off the beaten track. This is where Rene and I heard about the "Loop" near Tha Khaek, which is supposed to be even more natural and raw than the trip we just finished in the Bolaven Plateau. The "Loop" is essentially a 500km motobike ride northeast of Tha Khaek, a city in the south of Laos.

Therefore, we left our guesthouse in Pakse early in the morning and set off for Tha Khaek - about 350km away. Roads in the south of Laos are in good condition - but nevertheless, such a journey will take about 6 to 7 hours. This is due essentially to the fact, that the drivers have to deal with live stock standing in the middle of the road or narrow stretches, where they have to give way to oncoming traffic. In Laos (as well as other southeast Asian countries), the bus transport is essentially divided into "local" and "VIP" buses.

As you might guess from the name, one is for locals and the other one for tourists. Needless to say, that there's a difference in price and VIP buses sometimes cost the double of the regular, local tariff. But there's a subtle, hence important difference: Local buses stop anywhere along the route to pick up and drop off people. They also transport goods and animals. It is not uncommon to stop somewhere for 15 minutes, just to load a couple of rice bags. VIP buses, on the other hand, do not stop often along the route - and they usually only transport people.

Although the advantages of the faster buses are obvious, I prefer the local ones. To be perfectly honest: I hate the term "VIP" which insinuates that I would consider myself important and not being part of the rest of the people. Since I am neither David Beckham nor the Queen of England, I am not using these fancy, shiny buses at all. The local buses have definitely more character - but the one we took from Pakse to Tha Khaek was painfully slow. The scheduled driving time was six to seven hours. Some locals told us, that we should prepare for an eight hour trip. At the end, our journey lasted more than ten hours. The trip was shaky and I felt like a nut in its shell - bumping my head at each pothole against various things of the bus.

But there was Rene, who makes the best out of the bad. He climbed on the top of the bus - while the bus assistants were busy loading the passengers motos on the roof - from where he started his performance act. The bus crew and the other people watching were smiling and cheering. This broke the ice and we treated like favourite pets by all the other passengers on the bus. Upon arrival in Tha Khaek, everyone wished us good-bye and the driver seemed a bit sad to see us crazy tourists leave.


Unfortunately, we were welcomed by heavy rain which lasted through much of next day. Rene and I figured that our moto trip around "The Loop" would take too long under such weather conditions and we explored other options while strolling along the roads downtown Tha Khaek. We both agreed on leaving next day by bus to Ban Khoun Kham, a small village further north. This would make some progress moving towards Vientiane (our planned next stop) and give us the opportunity to explore at least parts of the missed tour. We also found out - after a short phone call - that the "Mi Tuna" guesthouse in Ban Khoun Kham would be able to provide us with motos to explore the limestone formations and caves, which are prominent in that region.

Once arrived in the village of Ban Khoun Kham, our host (her name is "Moon"), did collect motorbikes from the locals for renting them out to us. This system was new to us, but it makes everyone happy: The locals earn money. The guesthouse earns money. And the tourists can drive around freely. Next, Rene and I set off on the road number 8 towards the Vietnam border. On the way, we explored most of the branching mud tracks branching off left and right of the very scenic journey. Sometimes, we arrived in some small settlements of hill tribes who probably never had seen a Western face before. Rene did his usual performance act and we consequently encountered tons of happy people throughout the day.

There are some scenic stops along the road, so we decided to conclude the day with some "Lao-Lao" (a local spirit) and some random food we bought at the local market. We stayed at one of these scenic outlooks near the guesthouse and enjoyed a fabulous sunset (well, it was overcast, but the Lao-Lao did its trick).

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13 September 2008

The Hells Angels of Pakse

The city of Pakse located in the south of Laos, serves most tourists as a bus interchange only. From here, transport runs further south to the Cambodian border or the region of the 4000 islands - or north to Vientiane. Before arriving here, a drunk Dutch guy insisted that "there is nothing to see in Pakse". Readers of my blog already know, that I consider this to be a sure indicator that - in fact - there *is* most probably something worth exploring. Therefore, Rene - the Frenchman I encountered back in Stung Treng - and I decided to stay and discover the city of Pakse. Again, the Lonely Planet (and the French Guide du Routard) are almost silent about this area. However, my Nelles road map shows an extensive area with a lot of scenic spots surrounding Pakse. This area is called the Bolaven Plateau.

Upon arrival, we checked in to the "Sabaydee 2" guesthouse, which is the de-facto hub for backpackers in town. Here, we found information about tours in the area and motobikes for rent. Actually, the documentation (both in French and English) for most tours is excellent and we quickly decided to start a five day motobike tour through the Bolaven Plateau.

For parts of the trip, we were joining a Spanish couple who are also on a round the world trip, as well as a French couple who are on their way home after a two year stay in Australia and New Zealand. The six of us did set off - like a gang of "Hells Angels" (well, sort of - because our motos were far from being that impressive). Nevertheless, locals along the road were turning their heads, waving and greeting whenever they spotted us passing through their villages. In fact, the Bolevan Plateau is an area not yet spoiled by tourism and passing tourists are the main attraction everywhere. School kids would abandon their play and run towards the street cheering "Sabaydee" ("Hello" in Lao) - a reaction that simply made everyone of us smile.

Our tour took us from Pakse to the waterfalls of "Tad Fane" and "Tad Gniang", then we stayed overnight at the city of "Pakxong". For the last part of this day, we had to drive in the rain and the weather was quite chilly. Although most of us were freezing while eating dinner in the windy overnight lodge, we enjoyed the storytelling until late at night. "Late at night" actually means about 10pm. Since it is very hot during the day, life in Laos begins around 5am for the locals - before the heat of the day sets in. And the Lao folks go to bed at around 10pm - a time when almost all the places shut down and the silence sets in. As tourists, we did adjust to this schedule, and these days I tend to wake up with the first sun rays.

On the next day, we were heading through the city of "Thateng" to visit a settlement of animists further along the way in "Ban Kokphung Tai". Nevertheless, they do have electricity and the ubiquitous satellite dish next to their home. We were advised not to give any gifts, medicine or money to the tribe - especially not the children. The six of us arrived like conquerors, joining a group of other people on a bus tour. This made me feel uncomfortable, since it did seem to me like a visit to the zoo, disrespectfully taking pictures of private lives - and leaving after half an hour or so. Helena, the Spanish girl did feel the same. But I guess this is the kind of pictures some tourists show off back home, stating that they were visiting some local tribes in a very remote area. But we were only some 100km outside of Pakse and the place is very accessible.

Nevertheless, I made most out of the stay by driving one of the local boys about 200m to school. He was totally enjoying this short motobike ride, waving at his friends as we passed by. Upon arrival he did jump from the seat and was running towards his classmates cheering several times "Kop Chai" (Thank You" in Lao). We continued to the area of "Tad Lo", which is a tourist retreat, featuring two small waterfalls and several activities to spend the day. As it is rain season, there were not a lot of tourists in this area and the place felt quite "authentic" - but with all the comfort for Western Tourist (food variety, cheap accommodation). We found a place next to the river in which we had a swim to see a spectacular sunset.

The French couple, Rene and I did an Elephant ride the next day, right after breakfast. Although this wasn't really one of the things to do on my agenda, I ended up enjoying this excursion on the animals' back quite much. After that, we had to split, since Rene and I were planning on driving a couple of days more than the other four. But the six of us had a lot of fun so far.

Travelling with Rene is truly fun. He can juggle about anything he can get hold of. He also knows a few tricks of magic. Needless to say that our trip to the various villages was like driving a circus through the country side. Each time we stopped at a small local street side food stall, we would be surrounded by kids and adults. First, they just would be curious to see white people - then Rene started his act and the watching crowd would grow per minute. These are the kind of encounters that really made our days and every time we left, we spotted some local kids trying to imitate tricks they just had seen. The best compliments you can get as a performing artist.

Next, we were driving through the town of Sekong, to watch the waterfalls of "Tad Feak" and "Tad Hua Khon". Then we went onto a dirt track - about 75km long - to watch the "Katamok" waterfalls. This dirt track is absolutely awesome, although muddy. And most of the villages there are very remote and Rene's performance act was much appreciated by the locals. The last day, we went to visit the "Phaxouam Cliff", a touristic site that disappointed us a lot: About five tourist coach cars were parking there, with heeps of Thai tourists wandering around an area that looked like Disneyland, with village people ready to smile at any camera pointing at them. After having been through so many real and authentic villages in the region, this last stop was quite an insult for those who look for true Lao lifestyle.

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06 September 2008

Happy times on Don Det (4000 Islands)

Crossing the Dom Kralor border from Cambodia to Laos was easy. In fact, all of the guidebooks seem to purposely confuse people and tell tales about how difficult passing this border would be. Just buy a bus ticket to Stung Treng (the last Cambodian city before the border) and once there, get your ticket (from the bus company or a guest house) for onward transport to Don Det (or any other major place in Southern Laos). The whole trip from Phnom Penh across the border to the Island of Don Det will cost 25$.

At the 'Riverside Guesthouse' in Stung Treng, I met several backpackers, three of them heading in the same direction as me. We set off early next morning for the short ride to the border, which consists basically of two small customs huts and a roadside refreshment ice-box. Note the total absence of hawkers, taxi or moto drivers and beggars. This is a place as peaceful and quiet as it can get.

There, we would change for a minivan, driving us to our destination in Laos. While the four of us were waiting in the shadow of a tree, Rene - the French guy in our group - spotted a 'Petanque' field. Probably the customs officers get quite bored as there is very little traffic (One car every ten minutes or so). This was - so we guessed - the only explanation as to why such a recreational area would exist in the no-mans-land between the two countries. So we decided to play this French game under the watchful eye of the border officials, who were bemusingly make sure we'd stick to the rules. It was so relaxing and fun to play, that we made the minivan driver wait - once he'd arrived - until we had finished our game.

Next, we were driven to a landing pier and hauled onto a small boat which took us to the area of 4000 Islands. We all wanted to stay at the island of Don Det, despite the fact that the Lonely Planet guidebook is misleadingly insinuating that this spot would be crowded and pretty busy. I don't know what the book researcher was looking for, since this is the most laid back place I have seen so far. There is a total absence of the Easyjet crowd (drunk lads with tribal tattoos and blond girls in mini skirts trying to look unimpressed - see my Sihanoukville entry).

In fact, I'd like to thank all the guidebooks who neglect to give this place the credit it should deserve. Don Det is raw country and the locals are warm and welcoming. They greet you all the time and it would be very hard not to know how to say 'Hello', 'Thank You' and 'Goodbye' in Lao after spending a day here. It's hard (and heartbreaking) to imagine how this place and its people would survive promotions by tourist guidebooks.

However, it is hard to describe Don Det. This might explain why the guidebooks are so vague about it. All of our group said within five minutes after arrival that we'd probably overstay here. The term 'Paradise' was mentioned often. Along the Mekong river - which surrounds the island - there are heaps of bungalows in various shapes and sizes. Almost all of them come with a hammock on a terrace over the river. The restaurants also offer for the most part a 180 degree view of streaming water running rapidly through a scenic, rough wilderness.

The most difficult choice for us was the decision on which side of the island we'd rent the bungalows: Along the Sunset- or Sunrise-Boulevard. We settled for the latter as there was a bakery lounge with a river terrace nearby. They serve the usual choice of homemade pastry. Great stuff for hanging out during a long breakfast. Most bars and restaurants on the island will make your order 'happy' for an extra 50 cent. Besides magic mushrooms and special 'herbs', the prices for weed is close to the price of regular tobacco. Needless to say that a lot of tourists on Don Det are quite 'happy' all day long. If you missed the 'Flower Power'-era during the 'Woodstock festival' or on the island of Goa - back in 1968, then come to Don Det. It seems this is as close (or: as good) as it gets.

Sure, there are other things to do than chilling and listening to 'Jimi Hendrix' and other notorious late-60's soundtracks in the bars. Most common is a bicycle rent to explore nearby Don Kon island, which is linked by an abandoned railway bridge. There are scenic views of rice fields, various animals, temples and local villages. All can be done within a couple of hours. Needless to say that this perfectly justifies a couple of days' stay. Which will you make happy - one way or another.

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02 September 2008

August in Review: More Pictures

By clicking on the respective album picture below, you should be taken to a small selection of exclusive pictures which I have taken during the month of August while staying one night in Bangkok and heading through Cambodia.

One night in Bangkok
Cambodia

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